Truck box

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cdnwillyg
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Truck box

Post by cdnwillyg »

I'm about to start on my box and have a few questions.
I noticed most people are getting rid of the box seam using a seam sealer is this the way to go or would using a rust converter, primer then paint and leave the seam original?
Does anyone know the amount of paint needed for a two tone on the box only?
And finally tailgate hinges are what color, body color or black/silver??
Thanks
1968 Mercury M250 Camper Special
FE-390,570CFM 4bbl, C6 Automatic, PS, PB front disk.
Stony Plain, Alberta, Canada
:drive:Willy
jamesdfo
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Re: Truck box

Post by jamesdfo »

Willy: That horizontal seam on the box, as well as the vertical seam where the box panels meet the tail light extensions, the seams where the flat portions of the box floor meet the other peices, the wheel tub seams, etc would all have been seam sealed.
It's more money, but I would spend the extra for the 2K (catylzed) seam sealer.

As far as how much paint you'll need, best to ask the guys at the body shop supply when you go in to purchase it. I've been out of the trade too long:)

And from my recollections, the hinges would have been body colour. (or there's a small chance they may have been galvanized??)

James
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cdnwillyg
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Re: Truck box

Post by cdnwillyg »

Thanks James. :thup:
1968 Mercury M250 Camper Special
FE-390,570CFM 4bbl, C6 Automatic, PS, PB front disk.
Stony Plain, Alberta, Canada
:drive:Willy
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jzjames
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Re: Truck box

Post by jzjames »

With the seams you still have sandwiched metal behind the seam sealer that no sealer can reach - no matter how well it gets cleaned out. Moisture can creep back in behind the seam sealer eventually, but if you’re garaged, it would be a long time before it does.

As I’ve addressed the seams on my flareside (box, cab, hood) I’ve cleaned out any rust and rust blisters with a cut hacksaw blade to rip out the rust. Then sandpaper, wire brush, the point of a utility blade. I suppose you could sandblast it.
Point is to get into the seam as deep as you can.

Then I have brushed in Rusty Metal Primer, also I have tried the self etching primer. Brushed it in pretty thick. You’ve got to look at the seam pretty close to see if any tiny gas bubbles have formed that would allow exterior moisture to get back into the seam from the outside. It’s gotta be coated completely, this will give you the best chance at keeping the rust from coming back.

The rusty metal primer has worked well, a thick layer in there. The truck sits outside year round in wet Washington.
I’m keeping the seam rust under control this way.
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cdnwillyg
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Re: Truck box

Post by cdnwillyg »

So in all this does one try to hide the seam (seam sealer) or just provide good protection against rust leaving the line of the seam??
1968 Mercury M250 Camper Special
FE-390,570CFM 4bbl, C6 Automatic, PS, PB front disk.
Stony Plain, Alberta, Canada
:drive:Willy
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jzjames
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Re: Truck box

Post by jzjames »

You want to leave the line of the seam to look factory.

I want to add; dirt/crud left in the completed seams will cause moisture to collect there longer. This will promote rust.
wipe out seams with a cloth and water. A little maintenance saves a lot of work.
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