Rag joint eliminator

Suspension, steering, brakes, wheels & tires

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Abrams
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Rag joint eliminator

Post by Abrams »

Hey. I'm going threw rag joint number 2 on this truck.
Has anyone had experience with a "rag joint eliminator". I've seen some kits online but unsure if there any good.
Thanks
A
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sargentrs
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by sargentrs »

The biggest thing I see is length and mounting. The standard rag joint is only 2" or so from end to end. Most u- joint style couplers I've seen are more like 3-4". In addition, our steering shaft has a plate on the end that's a PITA to remove requiring heat and a great amount of force that I wouldn't want to tackle while it's still in the truck. Once you have that off you'll still probably have to do something to the end of the shaft to clean it off so the splines will install. Unless you're talking about something other than a u- joint style then I'd be interested in seeing what you're talking about.
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
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Gustavo 390
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by Gustavo 390 »

I'm interested in this idea too. I'm on my second one too. Seems like every year I need to replace it. The orginal lasted longer and better than the new ones. I figured with manual steering it puts more stress on it, not sure
ultraranger
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by ultraranger »

If the rag joints are getting shredded, you need to look at your cab mounts/rubber bushings. If the front mounts are bad/rubber collapsed, it'll pitch the cab downward which will put a downward stress on the end of the column tube and steering shaft bearing, as well as the rag joint itself.

If the rear cab mount bushings are collasped, the front of the cab will be pitched upwards and putting stress on the steering column components in the other direction.

I have a Borgeson stainless steel steering U-joint in my truck (eliminated the rag joint) but, if your cab mounts/bushings are bad, it's still going to induce stress into the lower column bearing and the input to the steering gear box, even with a U-joint.
Steve

1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.

1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.

2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
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colnago
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by colnago »

I've seen synthetic "rag joints" listed on ebay before. I've been tempted to try one out, but this is an area that I've never had any issues. And if it ain't broke ...

Seriously, I don't have issues with the cab mounts, and my truck probably has its original rag joint. I have heard before that collapsing cab mounts can put stress on the rag joint. It can be worrisome when you're cruising at highway speeds, and this two-ton block of steel is being directed by an old rag joint.

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Abrams
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by Abrams »

ultraranger wrote:If the rag joints are getting shredded, you need to look at your cab mounts/rubber bushings. If the front mounts are bad/rubber collapsed, it'll pitch the cab downward which will put a downward stress on the end of the column tube and steering shaft bearing, as well as the rag joint itself.

If the rear cab mount bushings are collasped, the front of the cab will be pitched upwards and putting stress on the steering column components in the other direction.

I have a Borgeson stainless steel steering U-joint in my truck (eliminated the rag joint) but, if your cab mounts/bushings are bad, it's still going to induce stress into the lower column bearing and the input to the steering gear box, even with a U-joint.
Would you happen to remember what part number the U-joint was?
Thanks
A
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by ultraranger »

Abrams wrote:
ultraranger wrote:If the rag joints are getting shredded, you need to look at your cab mounts/rubber bushings. If the front mounts are bad/rubber collapsed, it'll pitch the cab downward which will put a downward stress on the end of the column tube and steering shaft bearing, as well as the rag joint itself.

If the rear cab mount bushings are collasped, the front of the cab will be pitched upwards and putting stress on the steering column components in the other direction.

I have a Borgeson stainless steel steering U-joint in my truck (eliminated the rag joint) but, if your cab mounts/bushings are bad, it's still going to induce stress into the lower column bearing and the input to the steering gear box, even with a U-joint.
Would you happen to remember what part number the U-joint was?
Thanks
A
I'm currently at work. I'll have to look it up and post it this evening after I get home from work.
Steve

1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.

1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.

2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by markguiver »

When the rag joint on my truck stated looking ugly (and I got pulled over by a police officer who asked if I had been drinking because the truck was wandering) I replaced the whole shaft with a new Borgeson DD slip shaft with a U-joint at the box. Made the steering tighter and now 17 years later still works great. Any cab flex is taken up in the shaft and takes the stress off the joint. I don't remember what it cost back then, but it was money well spent IMO.
Mark.
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by Gustavo 390 »

Thanks for letting us know about this because I'm considering going with the Borgeson setup. Looks pretty simple enough to do
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Re: Rag joint eliminator

Post by ultraranger »

Abrams wrote:
ultraranger wrote:If the rag joints are getting shredded, you need to look at your cab mounts/rubber bushings. If the front mounts are bad/rubber collapsed, it'll pitch the cab downward which will put a downward stress on the end of the column tube and steering shaft bearing, as well as the rag joint itself.

If the rear cab mount bushings are collasped, the front of the cab will be pitched upwards and putting stress on the steering column components in the other direction.

I have a Borgeson stainless steel steering U-joint in my truck (eliminated the rag joint) but, if your cab mounts/bushings are bad, it's still going to induce stress into the lower column bearing and the input to the steering gear box, even with a U-joint.
Would you happen to remember what part number the U-joint was?
Thanks
A
I didn't see it mentioned if you have manual steering or power steering (?). My '69 F100 had manual steering with a column for an automatic transmission. I added power steering; Saginaw gearbox, Ford C-2 PS pump and I swapped the fixed '69 column for a tilt wheel column from a '78 F150.

The manual steering column flange, at the end of the tube, is swedge onto the splines --VERY tightly I might add. The flange isn't really meant to come off but, it can be pressed off, with enough persuasion.

The '78/'79 tilt column has a splined and bolted flange that attaches to the splined end of the steering shaft, that's made to couple up to the rag joint. My '78 tilt column was missing this piece when I got it so, I went with a steering joint instead.

The steering joint I got (from Summit or Jegs ....can't remember which) is a 3/4"-36 spline x 3/4"-36-spline stainless steel component from Borgeson. The part number is: SS16N-736X736 113434.
Steve

1969 SWB F100 Ranger. 240-6, C-4, 9" N-case 31-spline Traction-Lok w/3.50 gears.

1968 Mustang. My high school car. Owned since 1982.

2003 Azure Blue Mustang Mach1.
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